Despite the glamorous images of the 1940s you can find all over websites which have come across from America the image in Europe was very different. Rationing started in 1941, this meant that all clothing was rationed too. The Board of Trade introduced the utility scheme to ensure that manufacturing of consumer goods were produced to a high standard at reasonable prices. Imported fabrics ceased to arrive and fabrics that were produced in Britain in the mills were re-directed elsewhere. Silk was used for parachutes, and wool taken for uniforms and blankets. This really only left rayon and viscose to make most clothing from, but most of the labour force had been enlisted which left no-one to manufacturer. Stockings became a luxury of the past as nylon, which has only arrived in 1938, was also commandeered to produce a sky full of barrage balloons.
Rationing allowed each person 60 points per year for clothing, which was the equivalent of only one very good outfit. Growing children needed more clothes so their points system was lowered. The Board of Trade asked top fashion designers to come up with a wardrobe that was both practical and affordable within the points system. Each item had to be created using the least amount of cloth possible, less buttons, no decorations/embroidery and to be marked with the CC41 label which stood for ‘Controlled Commodity 1941’. Even shoes for ladies had a regulation heel of no more than 2″ in height or wedges. All CC41 items were given the nickname of ‘Utility’, and despite the preconception that they were frumpy, dowdy and boringly practical, many of the styles available were very ‘trendy’. The main problem was under the points system not many people could afford them! When you couldn’t buy it you had to make it from from whatever you could get your hands on, old curtains, clothing, coats, blankets, even blackout linings were used! The image below, although not brilliant was taken from the inside of a Gor-ray manufactured skirt.
CC41 Label in a Gor-ray Skirt
Britain’s ladies were also told that they would be too busy with the ‘War Effort’ to need frivolous or fancy clothing. Mr Bevin, our “Wartime Minister for Labour” instructed town women to enter the factories, earn a wage and build tanks and munitions and those living in the countryside were to work on the land and help produce more food as there weren’t many farmer left either. He also sent 40,000 young men down the mines to bring up desperately needed coal.
Original WW2 CC41 Suede Shoes
Paris was suffering under occupation, and the larger fashion houses such as Channel closed their doors whilst others continued to produce clothing for the wives of the German Military. Meanwhile in the US fashion was as large as life, with Hollywood glamour leading the way and many of today’s Reproduction and vintage styles fashions are based on the US fashion market and not British, which can be quite confusing for anyone wanting to replicate a look for a vintage weekend or Goodwood Revival. I will write more about “style” and how to get an authentic look that isn’t “make do and mend” in the future as this article was purely about CC41.
Did you know that Prince Charles is an advocate of vintage?
Vintage Central 